Wine and War

Every now and then, a book is good enough to share with friends. Wine & War: The French, the Nazis, and the Battle for France’s Greatest Treasure is one of those books. So, I offer this brief review.

Near the end of World War II, Maurice Drouhin hid for six months in the cellars beneath the Hospice de Beaune. The Nazis wanted him for working in the French Ré sistance. Although he was less than a block from his home, his family did not know where he was. His son, Robert, now proprietor of Domaine Drouhin Oregon and the family négociant firm in Burgundy, was just fourteen years old at the time.

In Alsace, Jean Hugel avoided detection by the SS for years by posing as a staff member at a Colmar hotel, right under the Germans noses.

These nuggets of information are found in the book Wine & War written by Don and Petie Kladstrup. The book is the story about what French winemakers did to fight against Germany in World War II. At the time, the Nazis occupied most of France and controlled it through a collaborator government at Vichy headed by Marshal Philippe Pé tain. Anyone who is a WWII history buff and/or a friend of Oregon’s wine industry will enjoy this book immensely.

Greatly interesting is the fact that U.S. and British Intelligence agencies tracked the movements and troop strength of the Wehrmacht by French wine shipments data spirited out of France by French winemakers through the Résistance. The Nazis plundered and pillaged the greatest wines, but purchased millions of bottles of wine to sell to the outside world and to boost their soldiers’ morale on the front.

France’s winemakers countered by switching labels and dumping their poorest wines on the Germans. They helped hijack 250 trainloads of materiel headed for the Germans and smuggled Résistance fighters and arms across the Occupation Line in wine barrels.

Besides the Drouhins, other winemakers whose stories are told in Wine & War include: Daniel Senard (Aloxe-Corton, Burgundy); Claude Brosse (Mâcon, Burgundy); Jean and George Hugel (Riquewhir, Alsace); Gaston Huet (Vouvray, Loire Valley); Jean Monmousseaux, Loire); André Cazes (Chateau Lynch-Bages, Bordeaux); Jean-Bernard Delmas (Chateau Haut-Brion, Bordeaux); Robert de Vogüé and Claude Fourmon (Moët & Chandon, Champagne); ); Maurice and Bernard de Nonancourt (Lanson, Champagne); and Guy and Claude Taittinger (Champagne).

One cannot come away from this reading experience without being impressed by the respect with which Frenchmen regard their vineyards and wines, the barbaric treatment doled out by the German military on the French people and their possessions, and why the French dislike the Germans so much.

Information for the book was gathered by personal interviews with characters still alive today, their families, and family archives. Wine & War may be found at Borders and other bookstores, including Amazon.


About the Author:

Jeffrey L. Lamy - Master of Science, Winery Consultant, Economist and Author. Jeffrey is a 1960 Yale graduate in Industrial Administration and Mechanical Engineering. Later he added an MS in Business. As it is with many second-career winemakers these days, his wine education was gained from short courses and technical visits to U.S. and European wineries. From 1982 to 1992, he planned, built and ran a 400+ acre operation for a wealthy lumber family, serving as its general manager and chief winemaker. His wines won more awards than any other Oregon winery. After returning to full-time consulting, he designed more than 400 vineyards, designed a dozen wineries and directed the winemaking for six. To, Jeff brings extensive knowledge in the technologies of grape growing and winemaking, experience in many regions, and keen insights of the entire business enterprise. He has written a book [on management of the winemaking business, which is expected to be in print soon.


  1. The Best Fine Wines » Wine and War: French winemakers during the Nazi Occupation … April 6, 2011 at 7:09 AM - Reply

    […] here t&#959 scan th&#1077 surplus: Wine &#1072n&#1281 War: French winemakers &#1072&#406&#406 owing t&#959 th&#1077 Nazi Occupation &#8… (function(){var […]

  2. Brenda April 6, 2011 at 8:36 AM - Reply

    This is an excellent book, I highly recommend it.

    • enobytes April 10, 2011 at 3:02 PM - Reply

      Agreed, and thanks for stopping by Brenda.

  3. Randy April 6, 2011 at 11:58 AM - Reply

    Definitely one of my fav books. A must read.

    • enobytes April 10, 2011 at 3:02 PM - Reply


  4. Jack February 15, 2013 at 2:39 AM - Reply

    Greetings two years late,
    I just read this book, it’s amazing. As an avid wine lover involved in the business for at least a third of my life, I can assure you this is a special book for oenophiles. I cut my teeth on French wine. It is my first love, and will be my last. Burgundy, Bordeaux, Chateauneuf du Pape, Alsace, and Loire Valley wines literally taste better knowing about the blood, sweat, and tears split to protect and preserve them. A must read for any wine lover.

Leave A Comment