The more I speak to people who are working in the wine industry in Argentina and Chile the more excited I get about what is still yet to come. With several centuries of viticulture under their belts both of these areas are still relatively new regions for many Americans and certainly for emerging eastern markets for wine sales. The significance of the history is why so many people are confused with how high the quality is from wines that are coming from these regions.

The fact many are not exactly household names does not mean they will take much longer to get there. With immigrants from Spain, Italy, Germany and France settling these areas as far back as five centuries ago winemaking was nothing new to them. Getting these wines into to our markets has been.

Maybe I can help that situation change. When I set out on this mission to put Carmenere from Chile up against Argentinean Carmenere, I did not know how hard it would be to find this variety being grown in Argentina. There is probably a lot more than I know about just not too many coming to the North American particularly the United States market.

I was speaking with a retail customer the other day and they seemed very surprised that Bodegas Norton wines have been on American shelves for at least twenty years. Most of these wines are very good but with Argentina getting the reputation of being a one grape wonder, Malbec being the grape I am pointing out the other varietals are certainly worth checking out. It is nice to say Argentina not only held its own but also came very close to winning this shootout. I think Argentina has a lot of potential with several other grape varieties other than Malbec.

In the forefront, my bet is on Torrontes. It is a wonderful grape and has only reached a small amount of its true strength and versatility. I have tasted great Bonarda (known in California as Charbono) and Tannant has also started developing a following. Cool climate Syrah is starting to arrive and the examples I have tasted show some diamonds in the rough. A one grape-wonder, I think not. Argentineans’ have managed to supply South America with wine for centuries and it was not Malbec one bottle at a time. Just like in Spain, the variety of available wines has kept their citizens supplied and content. The attempt to cultivate the chameleon grape Carmenere has also shown promise. The following reviews include some offerings from Chile and Argentina.

2007 Vina Santa Ema Reserve Carmenere Cachapoal Valley Chile

This wine is a full bodied complete package from a good vintage, 100% Carmenere which puts to bed that rumor that it was only a blending grape like Merlot. This big full flavored example spent 8 months in oak and another 4 months of bottle aging before release. The deep intensity of its color sets the frame for the rest of the picture so to speak. Looking back on the 2007 vintage it was very kind to most all regions and varieties in South American wines and this wine was no exception with almost 5 years of aging this wine has hit the proverbial best tasting window for this wines life expectancy.

If you see it on the shelf buy it but drink it within a year or so I would say it will start to lose that firm focused fruit pretty soon. The smells that are quickly obvious are black cherry mocha specialness in a bundle that wraps around your palate to deliver a lot of the same qualities in the flavors. The finish picks up some black pepper adding grip to the texture a pleasure to the senses. Roast meats, complex vegan dishes with seasoned protein and an innovative sauce that can cover the big smooth flavors like a chanterelle ragu, will go well with this wine.

Pair some Chocolate mousse with this one after a dinner date if you are single. Chances are you might get a chance to brush up on your breakfast for two skills. Another good reason to always have a bottle of sparkling wine in the refrigerator, listen to the MacDaddy on this one they don’t call me that for nothing.

Rating: Excellent (90) | $12 | 14.0% ABV

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2007 Vina San Pedro Castillo Molina Reserva Carmenere Maule Valley Chile

A big hitter; this is the fourth wine from these guys I have tried and not a loser in the bunch. The aromas are a balanced mixture of sweet fruit, savory espresso and a hint of sandalwood. It is medium to full -bodied wine and has a mouth feel of velvety texture. There is a classic Chilean character offered in this wine that has a broad base of smooth dark fruit, chocolate/mocha and depth that represented flavors from some vines with maturity and resounding in modern viticulture. The finish is pleasant and beckons one to take another sip to experience the sensation again. A great wine to pair with aged Manchego cheese, fire seared smoky beef or grilled stuffed peppers.

Rating: Excellent (90) | $12 | 14.0% ABV

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2006 Casa Silva Los Lingues Gran Reserva Carmenere D.O. Colchagua Valley Chile

Classic structure and a mouthful of texture satisfaction combined with the berry spice train running full throttle this wine has reached its stride in maturity and provides a luxurious experience that exemplifies the Carmenere from Casa Silva. The winery Casa Silva produces full bodied reds that deliver a big punch and a soft landing if you can wait them out. The tannins soften considerably after around 5 years in the bottle if stored correctly this one made the trip well. With lots of fruit, fresh tobacco and a smoky-peppery backbone that held together nicely, this big wine pairs well with big food. We went with proscuitto wrapped asparagus and large criminni mushrooms stuffed with bacon, tomato and caramelized shallot the asparagus and mushrooms were grilled. Like I always say, “Fire it up!” and if you want to do some grilling that’s OK too. We also grilled aged prime strip steaks after being well seasoned to a perfect medium rare served with chimichurri.

This menu sang with balance and nothing to overshadow the wines performance. The combination was so good if I get a chance to request a last meal in this life this would be one I would accept and devour. I’ll take just the wine too if that was all I could get.

Rating: Excellent (91) | $22 | 14.5% ABV

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2007 Viu Manent Carmemere El Incidente Mendoza

The marketing fervor surrounding this wine was intense, all the hype had me very excited about finding the right meal to serve it with it. It was a good wine but somehow I was expecting great. A blend of 85% Carmenere 10% Petit Verdot and 5% malbec, it was made to commemorate an almost fatal balloon crash that owner Jose Miguel Viu Bottini was involved in on April 8th 2006; fortunately all involved walked away from the disconcerting accident. This was a great story and if anyone knows how important a great story can be when influencing someone during a sale it is me. Regrettably it was still not enough entertainment to outpace the substance represented by the wine itself. As one of only two Argentinean Carmenere offerings I could find for this article. I was hoping to say Argentina won it by a land slide but alas that was not the case in this roundup.

To represent Argentina fairly I think more research is needed before I call a clear winner to this shootout. In time with some more experience or they finally start to send good Carmemere from Mendoza to North America because I am pretty sure it exists down there. There are probably a lot more producers than I am aware of and just a smattering representing what we are seeing on the shelves of retailers and on restaurant wine lists here. This was a big wine from the start but a bit hollow in the mid palate and the finish was not beckoning one back for more well at least in my opinion. I try not to think of vine age and bottle age in the equation that represents the retail price but with this wine it was hard not to consider it.

Rating: Very Good (88) | $42 | 14.5% ABV

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2008 Bodegas Viniterra Carmenere Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza

This wine will eventually make it to more locations in the US but at this time it does not seem to be their primary market outside of Argentina. It has aromas that are true to the varietal; dark red and blue fruit fresh leaf tobacco and dark chocolate. On the palate there is an herb and green pepper flavor apparent but not distracting from the other flavors in fact the parts seem to exceed the sum creating a deftly balanced wine. Medium-bodied, with smooth tannins create soft textures in the finish. This is a all purpose food wine that goes with haute cuisine as well as pub food, it will not pair well with anything that is citrusy and there is nothing with flavors that are too big for this wine. It would not be overshadowed even with dry-rubbed smoked brisket. It is worth seeking out.

Rating: Very Good (89) | $12 | 14.0% ABV

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If you are not drinking Carmenere from South America’s producers on a regular basis you are missing out on some of the most vesatile red wines made and also on abosolutely some of the best values on the planet. Get with the times and buy some of these wines. Enjoy!

Eat Well. Drink Well. Live Well.

Macdaddy out.

Photo credit: vintageonewines.com