Take a stroll down Avenue du Champagne in Epernay and you will see small stone plaques that mark the vineyards owned by the Grandes Marques, the large houses of Champagne. Glance across the landscape, and you would expect the large houses would own all the vineyards as far as the eye can see. On the contrary, 15,000 small growers control 90% of the champagne vineyards. Houses own small patches of vineyards but heavily rely on the growers to make their yearly allocation of champagne.

But surprisingly, many of the growers do not make their own wine because it is easier for them to sell their grapes to the large Champagne houses. The few that do follow an “artisanal” style with terroir being at the forefront rather than emphasizing a consistent “house style.” These growers, known as “farmer producers” or Récoltant Manipulants make their own Champagne from their estate-grown fruit. On a recent trip to Épernay, I found one of these special growers that focus on individually distinctive flavors of terroir-driven wines.

Surrounded by some of the most beautiful vineyards of Champagne is where you will find grower Pierre Gimonnet who took root more than two centuries ago in the heart of Côte des Blancs, where the noble Chardonnay grape reigns supreme. Although the Gimonnet family began cultivating vines in the 1750s, they sold their fruit to the Grandes Marques for many years.

It was during the period between the two great wars that the winemaking activity of the house really began. Around 1935, Pierre drew up the first tariffs. The fresh grape juice cohabitated with what they called a “quiet native wine of Champagne” and a “Champagne Cru”, which practically sold for the same price. It wasn’t until 1955 that Pierre’s son, Michel Gimonnet set out to create Champagne that would typify the style of Gimonnet we know today. When he started, he had no interest in becoming a large Champagne house. Rather, he became a Récoltant Manipulant, a grower who made “Farmer Fizz”, a term used to describe wines that offered individually distinctive flavors of terroir-driven wines.

Michel invested himself with passion and audacity in the development of a range of Champagne “Houses”. He knew each vine of every acre that he trampled on during his youth.  It was he who knew how unique the family vineyards were and how to style the wine to express the whole beauty and vivacity these vines have to offer.

Michel, who was passionate about winemaking and loving the vines devoted his life to Champagne, raised the standard of quality and produced pure love with a balance between elegance, freshness and harmony. Continuing through the next generation, Michel’s sons Olivier and Didier Gimonnet continue the passion by making delicious champagne—silky, structured and creamy, with soft minerality.

The Gimmonnet’s work exclusively with Chardonnay grapes sourced from 28 hectares (roughly 69 acres) of high quality plots from the premier cru vineyards in Cuis and grand cru vines in Cramant, Chouilly and Oger. They focus on making Blanc de Blancs, made from a single grape variety, Chardonnay and most of Gimonnet’s vineyards are more than 40 years old with the oldest parcel in Cramant—two plots planted in1911 and 1913. Something that makes this Domaine special is its lack of chaptalization (adding sugar to must), which is a rarity in Champagne. They will chaptalize when necessary (e.g. terrible vintages where the sugar in the grapes are exceptionally low) but the philosophy is not to manipulate in this fashion. What makes this Domaine also unique is that every year Olivier and Didier play on variations of the land to give their wine nuances of uniqueness with the aim to produce Champagne they love … the “Pierre Gimonnet style.”

Here are some of the wines I tasted with Didier. The Champagnes are delicious, hand-crafted gems, which are all well made, showing classical character of the Côte des Blancs (translated, “Hill of Whites”), just south of the town of Épernay.  They are all polished and elegant, highly recommended to extraordinary:

2005 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvée Brut Fleuron, Brut 1er Cru

Rich, clean and attractive, the Fleuron is toasty with spice, honey, mineral and citrus. Finishes with a touch of chalkiness and sweet earth. Spectacular!

Dosage: 6-8 g/l
Ageing: 4+ years in bottle
Production: 44,333 bottles; 4,897 magnums
Filtration: light filtration on clay before assembly
Malolactic Fermentation: Yes

Rating: Excellent (92) | $66 | 12.0% ABV

2006 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvée Brut Gastronome 1er Cru

Ripe, chalky, and expressive, this Cuvée’s stated purpose was created for restaurants. It has less carbon dioxide (4 atmospheres instead of the usual 5-6 full pressure Champagne) making it a style that is versatile as an aperitif and very food friendly. It is lovely and delicate with a creamy texture, made up of 80% Grand Cru—45% Chouilly, 19% Cramant and 16% Oger, and 20% Cuis. This assertive, soft citrus style would pair great with a variety of foods from fresh oysters to sushi, grilled white fish and scallops to lemon soufflé and fruit tarts. Bon appétit!

Dosage: 8 g/l
Disgorge: 3 months prior to release
Ageing: 18-30 months
Production: 37,000 bottles
Filtration: light filtration on clay before assembly
Malolactic Fermentation: Yes

Rating: Excellent (90) | $62 | 12.0% ABV

2004 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Extra Brut Oenophile 1er Cru, Non dose

“A wine without dosage is like a woman without makeup” ~ Didier Gimonnet

…and a beautiful woman she is! This is the 2004 Fleuron without dosage, marked Grand Cru with a fresh, airy texture. There are plenty of green apples and lime to go around with a ting of herbal notes. If you like it bone dry, this is the Champagne for you—pungent, streamlined and vibrant! Drink as an aperitif or pair with your favorite shellfish.

Dosage: none
Disgorge: 3 months prior to release
Ageing: 5+ years in bottle
Filtration: light filtration on clay before assembly
Malolactic Fermentation: Yes

Rating: Very Good (89) | $66 | 12.0% ABV

2004 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvée Special Club Millesime

Made from 100% Chardonnay mostly originating from the “Cramant Grand Cru” vineyard where a tenth of the vines are 40+ years old, this is a very pretty, feminine style. 25% of the grapes were harvested from vines that had been planted in 1911 and 1913. You will fall in love with this Cuvée for its innate ability to pull you in and not let go. Notes of apple and toast linger from start to finish with an underlying mineral finesse—simply lovely.

Dosage: 5 g/l
Disgorge: recently disgorged
Ageing: 7+ years in bottle
Production: 10,000 – 25,000 bottles according to harvest quality
Filtration: light filtration on clay before assembly
Malolactic Fermentation: Yes

Rating: Excellent (92) | $76 | 12.0% ABV

2002 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Cuvée Millésime de Collection

This isn’t a typical style in Champagne but it’s certainly appreciated by those who welcome the intricacies this Cuvée has to offer—in one word it is extraordinary! Creamy with a full-mouth feel, this Cuvée calls for a special pairing—go crazy and enjoy it with the likes of an Oyster, Salmon Tartare, Oyster Leaf, and Ponzu Granite. If you prefer to keep it on the simpler side, a creamy morel mushroom dish would work equally well. Get your game on and enjoy a spectacular showing coming from a vintage that rated superb.

Dosage: 5 g/l
Disgorge: April 2003
Ageing: 60+ months in bottle
Production: 20,373 bottles, 2,824 magnums
Filtration: light filtration on clay before assembly
Malolactic Fermentation: Yes

Rating: Excellent (93) | $80 | 12.0% ABV

NV Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Cuis 1er Cru Brut Sans Année

Lively, aerial, not measured, technically perfect… This Cuvée Brut sans année Cuis 1er Cru represents the archetype style of the Pierre Gimonnet & Fils.  It delivers complex layers of honey, toast and apple, finishing with a juicy lime zest.

Dosage: 8 g/l
Disgorge: 3 months prior to release
Ageing: In bottle, 18-30 months
Production: 184,478 bottles; 12,836 1/2 bottles; 4,887 magnums
Filtration: Yes
Malolactic Fermentation: Yes
Harvests: 72% 2008; the remaining from 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007

Rating: Very Good (88) | $56 | 12.0% ABV

What other Champagne growers do you recommend? Hit me up with a comment…