The rise of the independent “grower Champagnes” will become more relevant and gain popularity around the world. Why am I making this prediction? Because 19,000 small growers control 90% of the Champagne vineyards, and drinkers love a terroir focused Champagne that offers unique expression.

Matt Kramer validated my thoughts at a recent conference where we talked mostly about Lubbock, Texas and tuna fish cans (that’s a story for another post) but his takeaway was, “forget about remembering all of the Champagne names and simply ask for grower Champagne.”

If you have not heard of this term before now, do not sweat it. All you need to remember is two things: the grower Champagnes tend to be more terroir focused, sourced from single or closely located vineyards around a village, which differ greatly from the larger Champagne houses that source grapes from upwards of fifty vineyards to produce a consistent house style. And if you see the terms “farmer fizz”, “farmer producers” or “Récoltant Manipulants”, it has the same meaning as “grower Champagne.”

On a recent trip to Épernay, I found one of these special growers that focus on individually distinctive flavors of terroir-driven wines. Tucked away in the district of Reims sits a tiny commune of Villers-sous-Châtillon, where the grower Collard-Picard resides. The firms origins sit in two noble winegrowing areas, the Collard part being in the Marne valley and the Picard part in the Côte des Blancs.

I had an opportunity to meet with Olivier Collard and his wife during the 2011 harvest.

For Collard, Champagne begins in the vineyard. He began practicing organic growing 6 years ago on his 11 hectares of environmentally aware cultivations of Chardonnay Meunier and Pinot noir and talks about the importance certification to ensure quality for his customers. But growing organically doesn’t come easy. In the Côte des Blancs, it is a little easier because it is flat terrain. In the Marne Valley, it is a bit more challenging. In the cellar, he uses natural yeast and none of the wines go through malolactic fermentation. The wine sits on its lees for approximately seven months and he uses large wooden barrels for aging.

The result produces wines with complexity, excellent balance, structure and acidity.

NV Collard-Picard Cuvee Prestige Brut
The grapes mostly come from Grands and 1er cru de Champagne regions. Its fermented in oak—them four years of blending and three years of aging in the cellar. This is a toasty, slightly sweet (11% dosage) wine with butterscotch flavors. It has excellent balance and acidity.

Rating: Excellent (90) | $25

2006 Collard-Picard Cuvee Prestige Dom. Picard Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs
The juice for this blend comes from the vineyards classified as Grand Cru, from Oger and Le Mesnil sur Oger. Vinification without malolactic fermentation and aging in oak casks adds to the complexity and depth. The flavors consist of orange and melon; it’s dry and acidic with good balance. Pair this up with caviar.

Rating: Excellent (90) | $59

NV Collard-Picard Cuvee des Merveilles 1er Cru Rose de Saignee
This rose is from a vineyard classified as a premier cru in the area of Vertus. It uses the Saignee technique (bleding of the vats), a process that has practically disappeared from the Champagne region. It goes through an oak barrel fermentation (called Foudres de Chene) then it is aged in the bottle for a few years. This is very fruit driven with notes of strawberries—good body and structure.

Rating: Excellent (91) | $67

2002 Collard-Picard “Archives” Millesimee Vintage Champagne
This is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot noir. This was absolutely one of my favorite Champagnes tasted on the trip. It has a solid lemon core, full-flavored with a hint of nuttiness finishing with a good dose of mineral—complex from start to finish. Pair this up with a mushroom risotto and parmesan for an epiphany pairing. 8,000 bottle production.

Rating: Excellent (96) | $100

We finished the tasting with quite a treat. Olivier pulled out his grandfather’s vintage 1964 Pinot Meunier Rosé. In the 60’s, everyone claimed it was impossible to make a Champagne out of 100% Pinot Meunier, so Olivier’s grandfather, Rene, set out to prove them wrong. Mulled fruits, ginger and spice fill the glass, slightly oxidized, yes, but the experience of tasting history in a glass—priceless. Thank you for sharing this special Champagne, Olivier, and Santé! Rene.

Of note, the Collard-Picard is hard to find in the U.S., but K&L usually has a few in stock.

…and if you can’t get your hands on this particular producer, take Matt Kramer’s advice and simply ask your wine steward or sommelier for “grower Champagne” – you won’t be disappointed!